When you buy gold in India, you'll see markings like 24K, 22K, or 18K. These indicate purity — the amount of pure gold versus alloy metals. Understanding these numbers protects you from paying premium prices for lower-purity gold. This guide breaks it down.

What Does "Karat" Mean?

Karat (K) is a unit measuring gold purity. Pure gold is 24 karats, meaning 24 out of 24 parts are gold. Lower karat values mean lower purity.

The formula: Purity % = (Karat / 24) × 100.

Common Purity Levels in India

24K Gold — 99.9% Pure

  • The highest purity commonly available.
  • Very soft — too soft for daily-wear jewellery.
  • Used in coins, bars, and biscuits.
  • The purity standard for gold ETFs and Sovereign Gold Bonds.

22K Gold — 91.6% Pure

  • Most common purity for jewellery in India.
  • Contains 91.6% gold + 8.4% alloy metals (usually copper, silver, zinc).
  • The alloy adds durability for daily wear.
  • Also called "916" gold — you'll see this stamp inside jewellery.

18K Gold — 75% Pure

  • 75% gold + 25% alloy.
  • Used for studded jewellery — the extra alloy strength holds diamonds and gemstones securely.
  • Can look slightly different in colour due to more alloy content.

14K and Lower

  • 14K = 58.5% gold. Sometimes seen in fashion jewellery.
  • Below 14K is rare in Indian mainstream markets.

Why Jewellery Isn't 24K

Pure 24K gold is soft and bends easily. Wearing 24K jewellery daily would deform it quickly. The addition of alloys (in 22K or 18K) makes jewellery durable, retaining shape and holding stones. This is a technical necessity, not a scam.

Hallmarking

The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) certifies gold purity through hallmarking. Hallmarked jewellery carries:

  • The BIS logo.
  • Purity mark (e.g., "22K916" or "18K750").
  • Assaying centre's mark.
  • A HUID (Hallmark Unique Identification) number under the new hallmarking regime.

Always insist on hallmarked jewellery — it's your guarantee of purity.

Purity Affects Price

The price you pay is roughly proportional to the gold content:

  • 10g of 24K gold at market rate.
  • 10g of 22K gold ≈ 91.6% of that rate for gold content + alloy cost.
  • 10g of 18K gold ≈ 75% of that rate for gold content.

Plus jewellery adds making charges (8-25%) and GST (3%) on top.

Watch Out For

Non-Hallmarked Gold

Refuse to buy any gold jewellery without a BIS hallmark. There's no way to verify purity without it (short of a professional test).

"22K" Sold as 24K Price

Some dishonest sellers price 22K jewellery at 24K rates. Always verify current 22K rate before purchase.

Underweight Alloy Claims

Some sellers claim their 22K is "better than others" and charge more. Purity is a defined standard — 22K is 22K.

Making Charges Traps

High making charges (25% or more) drastically reduce the resale value. Buy simple, low-making-charge designs if buying jewellery as store of value.

Purity for Investment

For pure investment (not decoration), stick to 24K options:

  • Sovereign Gold Bonds (denominated in grams of 24K).
  • Gold ETFs (backed by 99.5%+ gold).
  • Coins and bars of 24K purity from authorised dealers.

Jewellery, no matter how pure, is not an efficient investment because of making charges and resale losses.

Testing Gold Purity

  • BIS hallmark: primary trusted marker.
  • Karat meter: professional shops use electronic testers.
  • Nitric acid test: destructive, done in labs.
  • Home methods (magnet, water, sound) are unreliable — don't trust them.

Common Mistakes

  1. Confusing "gold-plated" or "gold-filled" with pure gold jewellery.
  2. Buying non-hallmarked gold for lower prices.
  3. Ignoring making charges in total cost.
  4. Assuming purity is the only cost factor.
  5. Buying 22K jewellery and treating it as pure investment.

Final Thoughts

Gold purity is straightforward once you know the basics. 24K is investment-grade. 22K is jewellery standard. 18K is studded-jewellery friendly. Always insist on BIS hallmarking, understand how purity affects price, and separate cultural gold buying from pure investment decisions. Knowledge here saves you from paying premium prices for lower-purity gold.